Building a BETTER Grass Garden

Ornamental grasses can be an important addition to your landscape, since they are deer-resistant (as well as groundhog, bunny etc resistant), not too hard to locate in the nursery trade and provide multi-season interest. You can find grass species that are tall, spiky, soft, clump-formers, spreaders, some with colored foliage, some with variegated foliage, and so on. They are fairly easy to take care of, as long as you have a good set of loppers to cut some of the larger ones back as they grow bigger.

Ornamental grass can function as an exclamation point in the design.

Hermannshof Planting Beds with autumn grasses

Ornamental grasses are the matrix in a matrix planting.

Roy Diblik planting design

Ornamental grasses can even add an almost formal element; a very modern look as seen in these views of Piet Oudolf’s design for the Scampston Hall Walled Garden


Ornamental grass for winter interest.



Ornamental grasses have deep roots, which promote healthy soil.

To be more successful, your grass garden should have a mixture of cool-season and warm-season ornamental grasses. Cool season grasses thrive when temperatures are between 60 - 75 degrees F. They start to grow in early spring and may remain semi-evergreen over the winter. They’re happy again in late fall, but in the heat of the summer they tend to go dormant and may even brown-out - something to consider as far as placement within the planted border. Warm-season grasses don’t even break dormancy until the ground temperature is above 65, and thrive when temperatures are between 80 - 95 degrees F. So warm season grasses are late starters - especially in some of the cool springs we’ve had recently. If the warm-season grasses are just sitting there doing nothing, your matrix planting may look empty and not make much sense until summer.

If you include both types of ornamental grasses, you’ll have fresh new grasses in the spring as well as mature grasses and grass flowers in the summer and fall.

WHO’s WHO of Ornamental Grasses:

Cool Season Grasses:

Briza media, Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’, Calamagrostis canadensis, Chasmanthium latifolium, Deschampsia caespitosa, Deschampsia flexuosa, Elymus spp., All Fescues, Helictotrichon sempervirens, Molinia, Nasella tenuissima, Sesleria spp., Stipa spp.

Warm Season Grasses:

Andropogon spp, Bouteloua spp, Calamagrostis brachytricha, Eragrostis spp, Hakonechloa spp, Miscanthus spp, Muhlenbergia spp, Panicum spp, Pennisetum spp. Sporobolus heterolepsis, Schizachyrium spp, Sorghastrum nutans

Darrel Morrison's Article for the Ecological Landscape Alliance Newsletter: Musings on Ecology, Art and Music in the Landscape

The Ecological Landscape Alliance has the following Mission Statement:


"Advocating for responsible stewardship of land and natural resources in landscaping and horticultural practices."

From the Feb 15, 2018 ELA Newsletter: Darrel Morrison starts his article by saying:


"Increasingly, I am intrigued by the value of linking ecology and ecological processes with art and music in the design of landscapes that might be considered "ecological art."  The products of ecological art have the potential to be, simultaneously:

Ecologically sound 

Experientially rich 

"Of the Place," reflecting a sense of place 

Dynamic, i.e., changing over time"

Similar thoughts have been voiced by a number of other "ecological" landscape designers recently in books and interviews that I've read and in lectures at NYBG, including Claudia West, Thomas Rainer, Roy Diblik, Cassian Schmidt and Patrick Cullina.

This is the challenge we face as garden makers in 2018 - to capture all of these qualities in our plantings and to do it "well".  Everyone agrees that part of "doing it well" means having a real understanding of the plants you're using - to quote/paraphrase Roy Diblik from his lecture at NYBG earlier this winter, you have to use "plant-driven thought"- understand what a plant wants to do and where it wants to be so it can thrive and how fast it grows and how it spreads and so forth.  I feel its important to keep your plant palette broad - not that you have to jam tons of different plants into every design, but that you have to understand a reasonably broad range of plants so that each garden is fresh and each new idea is fresh, even though the general "ecological approach" is the same.  

Of course, no garden ever stays the same.  The key to having a "design without an expiration date"- again paraphrasing Roy Diblik - is to keep "gardening" - keep constantly enhancing and fine-tuning.  You may have to switch out some plant choices here and there, do some dividing, plant bulb layers - but in the end of the day if you've done the job well, you have a sustainable plant community.  (Until a tree falls, or there's a flood, or a new disease comes along or there's an early frost, or no frost ….Then you have to rebalance it)

So that's where we get back to Darrel Morrison's article:

He writes:

Darrel Morrison's Old Stone Mill plant community

Darrel Morrison's Old Stone Mill plant community

Part of Darrel Morrison's Gardens at the BBG - North Entrance "Pine Barrens"

Part of Darrel Morrison's Gardens at the BBG - North Entrance "Pine Barrens"

  • Ecological Soundness grows out of the selection of appropriate plant species and placing them in the micro-environment where they will thrive without the importation of resources such as irrigation water and chemical fertilizers. …They in turn serve a variety of functions, ranging from controlling erosion to providing habitat for birds, butterflies, bumblebees and other pollinators …"

  • Experiential Richness emerges from the presence of a diversity of plant species and associated fauna, in compositions that are rich in color, texture and movement. "

He goes on to say later in the essay:

  • Two other characteristics of the environment that provide a dynamic quality are LIGHT and MOVEMENT. The color of natural light changes as a day progresses, and the physical movement of the plants (and the fauna that are attracted to them bring life to them.) I never tire of seeing the wave-like motion of tall grasses in the landscape, or of seeing (and sometimes hearing) birds, butterflies, and bumblebees moving through a landscape. The direction of light changes throughout a day and a year as well. We can place plants in a designed landscape where they will, during some part of the day, be backlit, literally making them "glow," or as landscape architect A. E. Bye expressed it in a 1967 essay in Landscape Architecture Magazine, they exhibit "luminosity.""

A Darrel Morrison "created" landscape in Wisconsin

A Darrel Morrison "created" landscape in Wisconsin

He alludes to the four "characteristics of landscapes that people find engaging and attractive. These are (1) mystery, (2) complexity, (3) coherence, and (4) legibility." 

Mystery is derived from spatial form which unfolds sequentially as one moves through the landscape, revealing landscape spaces. Mystery implies that part of the scene is hidden, thus motivating people to want to see what is "around the bend."

Complexity relates to the biotic diversity in a landscape and the aesthetic characteristics which come with this diversity - e.g., colors, textures, and movement.

Coherence results from the fact that the distribution of species exhibits perceptible pattern. The tendency of many species being aggregated to a degree, leads to the occurrence of directional "drifts" of color and texture.

Legibility … relates to people's ability to "read" how they will move through the landscape, not feeling claustrophobic or disoriented. 

A Jens Jensen-inspired "signature" for Darrel Morrison is the Council Ring

A Jens Jensen-inspired "signature" for Darrel Morrison is the Council Ring

  • For "sense of place": "We are increasingly surrounded by generic landscapes, whether it is the sprawling big box stores repeated over and over in suburban environments, or landscapes that are increasingly alike, with the same, limited number of species replacing the natural diversity that may have once occurred there. … We can reverse the trend toward "placelessness" by incorporating an array of locally native species which provide cues and clues as to where we are."

  • Dynamic - the created landscape changes over time: "…Landscapes have the potential to be four-dimensional art, with time being the fourth dimension. This is because ecology-based designs are not frozen in time, but are always are evolving, with seasonal changes, growth of individual plants, and in some cases migration of species within the composition. The landscape we see in May is different from the one we see in July, or October, or December. And the landscape we see in 2018 is not the landscape we will see in 2028 or 2048. Hence, there is always something new to discover."

Words to live by - "there is always something new to discover"

2017 Trial Garden Results - from Walters Gardens in Michigan Jeremy Windemuller Trial Garden Manager

Best drought tolerant perennial: Echinacea Lakota 'Santa Fe' (its grown from seed, so it has slight color variations) flowers profusely in shades of red and orange.  Its a good performer in both containers and landscape. Grows 12 - 16" tall.

Echinacea Lakota 'Santa Fe'

Echinacea Lakota 'Santa Fe'

Echinacea Lakota2.jpg

Best heat-tolerant perennial: Sedum Rock 'N Grow 'Popstar' - a low-profile sedum that doesn't open up as it grows.  It has blue-green foliage and salmon-pink flowers.  The trial gardens manager says it is "a definite improvement over S. cauticola".  It was un-phased in their trial gardens during an extra-hot and dry summer.

Sedum 'Popstar'

Sedum 'Popstar'

Best pollinator-friendly perennial:  Salvia nemorosa 'Bumbleberry'.  Its easy to maintain since it has a naturally compact habit, but its still a vigorous grower.  About 12" tall and will re-bloom if dead-headed. 

Salvia 'Bumbleberry'

Salvia 'Bumbleberry'

Best overall performance: Heuchera PRIMO 'Black Pearl'  

"We were wowed right away by the visuals of this plant, and once we got it into production, we continued to be impressed….It truly lives up to the PRIMO name of larger, vigorous plants."  Glossy black foliage can make a container planting pop!  

Heuchera 'Black Pearl'

Heuchera 'Black Pearl'

Horticulture Magazine - Plants We Love for 2018

Firespire  Musclewood Carpinus caroliniana 'J.N. Upright' American hornbeam  This cultivar is a small, narrow upright tree that grows to about 15' tall and 10' wide at maturity.  It develops consistent red-orange fall foliage color and is grown in either clump or tree form.

Carpinus caroliniana 'J.N. Upright'

Carpinus caroliniana 'J.N. Upright'

The Cary Award for "Plants of exceptional beauty and durability that are well suited for the New England climate"

And the two winners are ....

Bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parviflora)  - This native shrub is well-suited to woodland edges and shrub borders.  It flowers in mid-July with upright panicles of tubular white flowers, and puts on a welcome show in the doldrums of July.  It prefers full sun and forms colonies by suckering - give it enough space to form a big colony (free plants!).  Its great for pollinators.

Atlantic white cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides) - described in the award language as having "elegant blue-green foliage, beautiful winter presence and decay-resistant wood".   It needs full sun and doesn't mind moist soil.  The Cary award folks think that having so many cultivars gives us lots of form and foliage options.  BUT, I have to say I disagree with the notion that Chamaecyparis thyoides is a "plant of exceptional beauty" unless you are really fond of the "bronze winter foliage" look.  I concede that in a "naturalistic" setting it could look, well, natural.  But up close and personal, your clients will think it is dead during the winter.

GreatPlants program (Nebraska) aims to "bring superior native plants to the challenged gardens of the Great Plains".  Their choices add beauty to the garden, and also offer ecosystem services.

  • Virginia mountain mint (Pycnanthemum viginianum) was chosen as Perennial of the Year for 2018.  Described as "a stout, bushy perennial" it grows 3 ft tall and is topped with flat clusters of flowers with tiny purple spots in July and August.  It grows in full sun to part shade and tops most pollinator-friendly plant lists.
Pycnanthemum muticum (Short-toothed Mountain Mint) is not to be confused with Virginia Mountain Mint!  They look quite different - either one can be used but just make sure you know which one you're choosing.

Pycnanthemum muticum (Short-toothed Mountain Mint) is not to be confused with Virginia Mountain Mint!  They look quite different - either one can be used but just make sure you know which one you're choosing.

 

  • American hazelnut (Corylus americana) was chosen Shrub of the Year.  It grows to about 10-16 ft with a rounded, multistemmed habit.  It forms thickets and is usually found at the edge of the woodland.  It bears hazelnuts (filberts) beloved by wildlife, and can show a rainbow of fall foliage colors - combinations of orange, purplish-red, yellow and green.  Its catkins are an excellent pollen source for bees in the early spring and it's a host plant for numerous butterfly and moth species.

 

  • Bristleleaf Sedge (Carex eburnea) was chosen Grass of the Year.  Soft, threadlike leaves form dense tufts approximately 6 in tall and wide.  It spreads slowly, but forms a hardy ground cover that doesn't have to be cut back in spring.  Very useful for erosion control on slopes, as a living mulch in planted borders or in shade gardens to crowd out weeds.

And last but certainly not least: Perennial Plant of the Year for 2018 as awarded by the Perennial Plant Association: Allium 'Millenium'.  

'Millennium' grows to about a foot tall and wide and blooms profusely in mid-summer.  Bees and butterflies are drawn to the flowers, but deer and bunnies stay away.  Since it's a sterile variety, it doesn't spread through the garden by seed, and is very long-blooming (no need to set seed!).  Propagate it by division in the spring.  Sun or shade, dry or medium soil (not wet!).  Needless to say, its a favorite of Roy Diblik - that means its a favorite of mine as well.  I've started using it in most gardens, and it definitely "shares the space unselfishly".

Allium 'Millenium' Perennial Plant of the year for 2018

Allium 'Millenium' Perennial Plant of the year for 2018

Roy Diblik - "They share the space unselfishly"

roy-diblik.png

He had already inspired me with his book "Know Maintenance Perennials" but I had no idea how wise, cool, down-to-earth, innovative, knowledgeable, hilariously funny - shall I go on? - he is until he spoke at our NYBG LDSA meeting in December.  All thanks to Hanna Packer - shout-out to her expertise; visit her website www.hannapackerdesign.com

Migratory Bird Garden 480P4966.jpg

He talked to us about Plant Communities, and somehow it ended up being about human communities as well.  A plant community will thrive only if it has all the building blocks, including good soil and a diversity of plants to support a wide variety of insects.  Living and dying roots are what regenerates the soil.  "Remnant prairies" (untouched soil) have 18 - 24 species of plants per sq meter - all thriving and occupying their niches happily and benefitting each other.  They share the space unselfishly.  So it should be with human communities as well.

But lets move on to some of Roy Diblik's wisdom that I managed to capture:

You have to get to know the plants. It's not "fair" to the plant to ask it to do what you want it to do - you should find out what it wants to do and where it wants to be to thrive."

P.S. this is how we should treat people as well!

Pachysandra, vinca, euonymus etc are the "default landscape -

he grows 32,000 sedges in his nursery and uses a mixture of sedges as ground cover


Turf and boxwood" landscapes have no pollinators, no birds.


You don't need mulch, organic amendments, fish emulsion etc - Everything you need falls from the trees in autumn and all the soil needs is roots living and dying.


Thugs" are opportunistic - if you disturb an area they will take over - that's simply their nature

You have to put a plant community together in a way that eliminates agricultural weeds. If you can reduce the light reaching the soil to below 1000 ft-candles (or better, below 200 ft-candles) then weed seeds won't germinate.

Contractors are being paid to keep bad from getting worse

A plug will equal a 1G container in 5 weeks

Ornamental grasses sporobulus, seslaria, schizachyrium as the "grout" between the plants.  For example, Allium 'Summer Beauty' and seslaria live together fruitfully (not competitively)

He usually uses a balance of 60:40 grasses:flowering plants

Seen below: pictures of Roy Diblik's matrix plantings at the Chicago Art Institute, Chicago's Shedd Aquarium and the Lurie Garden

Lurie Garden Chicago - the interplay of sun and shadow and the colors of the grasses, with the amsonia just beginning to turn its bright yellow autumn color, is mesmerizingly beautiful to me.

Lurie Garden Chicago - the interplay of sun and shadow and the colors of the grasses, with the amsonia just beginning to turn its bright yellow autumn color, is mesmerizingly beautiful to me.

Roy Diblik at the birth of the Lurie Garden

Roy Diblik at the birth of the Lurie Garden


Roy Diblik says: "Learn about 20 plants in depth, then gradually learn another 10 or 20 - that's all you'll need" 

He creates "quilt patterns" - each module is interchangeable and they can be mixed and matched

 

Tulip 'Golden Artist'

Tulip 'Golden Artist'

Salvia 'Wesuwe'

Salvia 'Wesuwe'

Euphorbia polychroma dark form

Euphorbia polychroma dark form

Geranium 'Magnificum' from Roy Diblik's Nursery

Geranium 'Magnificum' from Roy Diblik's Nursery

Monarda bradburiana

Monarda bradburiana

The composition of your design sets up the plant community but also creates spirit and emotion

IMG_4730.JPG
Allium, Calamintha, Stachys and Echinacea

Allium, Calamintha, Stachys and Echinacea

He gave us info about some of the plants he uses: (I mostly tried to capture his own words)

  • Carex flacca ('Blue Zinger') is an example of a carex that quickly covers ground and can take some foot traffic, but when its crown touches another crown it stops spreading

  • Monarda bradburiana prefers avg to dry soil (unlike some other monardas)

  • Salvias love to mix with one another but they can't survisie getting watered 3 times per week

  • Don't use Salvia 'May Night' because it doesn't rebloom. Instead use Salvia wesuwe that reblooms constantly

  • A combo he likes: Geranium sanguineum, allium cernuum and ornamental oregano

  • Covering the growing points of perennials with wood mulch kills them

  • Northwind has an Echinacea tenneseensis hybrid that tolerates clay soil

  • Sporobulus and sedges are very natural-looking in a woodland garden; also mixtures of sedge and Geranium macrorrhizum in shade

  • Commercial prairies that are started from seed usually end up being 5 native plants living together. It will take 15 years to get a diverse/"real" prairie with 18-24 species per sq meter

 

Words of wisdom: "Sedges give you the opportunity to outsmart weeds"

One plant he mentioned that I hadn't known was Gillenia trifoliata (also Porteranthus trifoliatus).  Common name: Bowman's Root (Also known as Indian Physic or American Ipecac; sounds lovely!).  Bowman's Root is an easy-to-grow native for bright shade or partial sun and it tolerates tree root competition well as long at it has a nice layer of organic mulch.  Bowman's Root is lovely in a mass planting where its lacy white flowers can shimmer in a light breeze.  It makes a nice filler - think Gaura for shade!  A compact, rounded plant, it is topped in late spring with ethereal white flowers growing in a few loose terminal panicles, with red petioles and mahogany stems.  Clean, disease-free foliage often turns deep bronzy red in fall and contrasts beautifully with the more typical oranges and yellows in the perennial border.  Interesting form and unique seed heads persist into winter.  Great for cut flowers!

Proven Winners Shrubs to keep an eye out for

I saw a couple of these varieties this season, and hope to see more and try some of them next season.   (Note that pictures appear beneath each plant description)

Weigela 'Spilled Wine' - I'm not a big fan of weigela because I think it gets to look ratty later in the season and the older varieties needed to be pruned constantly in order to look like anything in the landscape.  But this variety was named 2018 Landscape Plant of the Year "selected by landscapers and growers who understand the needs of the market and the range of challenging climatic conditions acrosss North America".  Is it the Big Mac of weigelas?  Available anywhere and always tastes the same?  Well, here's the description in the Spring Valley Nursery catalog:

"Weigela florida 'Bokraspiwi' Spilled Wine  has dark red, waxy leaves and a spreadinbg habit.  Its hot-pink-magenta flowers are similer to Wine & Roses  weigela, but this is a smaller plant that is wider than it is tall,  Perfect for edging or filling in spaces in a sunny border"

Zone 4, 2-3' tall and 3' wide, spring bloom, deer resistant - could it be a sub for 'Concorde' barberry?

Buddleia 'Miss Molly' - The reddest buddleia - a really beautiful jewel-tone color for when you get sick and tired of purple - stands out in the garden.  It's a "compact form" (4-5 ft) and is an interspecific hybrid that is non-invasive.  Now that buddleias are better-behaved (not so gigantic and weedy-looking) and non-invasive, I'm using them a lot again.

Buddleia X 'Miss Molly'

Buddleia X 'Miss Molly'

Callicarpa 'Purple Pearls': saw it, loved it, instantly bought it, installed it.  Deer walked by and didn't eat it.  That's the first good sign.  Its another inter-specific hybrid, with the nice dark eggplant-ish foliage of one parent and the pink flowers of the other.  Lots of big berries in fall.  Also and upright habit.  For my money, you can't go wrong!

Callicarpa 'Purple Pearls'

Callicarpa 'Purple Pearls'

Chaenomeles 'Double Take Orange' - same thing - saw it just at the end of its flowering, instantly bought it, installed it, deer walk right on by.  Flowers are quite a bit more noticeable than the non-double-flowered forms, but the shrub still has a quirky yet interesting habit.  Plant along the top of a wall where the flowers can be at or above eye level.  You will eventually have to prune it  (grows 4-5 ft tall)- try to wait until late winter so that you can bring the trimmings inside and force them.  No thorns; no fruit.  Don't move away from the non-double chaenomeles completely, though, because the fruit is unexpected, pretty, and you can bring them inside to act as natural air fresheners instead of buying expensive quince candles!

Chaenomeles 'Double Take Orange'

Chaenomeles 'Double Take Orange'

Clematis - PLANT MORE of them!  What can I say, but that they give you bang for buck.  They're really not hard to grow after all, at least not some of the newer varieties (as well as some of the good old tried-and-true ones).  These Proven Winner ones have been selected for vigor, disease-resistance and flower power.  Try 'Sweet Summer Love' and 'Brother Stefan'.  'Brother Stefan' is one of the of the ones developed in Poland - it is a late spring bloomer (old wood) with sporadic rebloom later on new wood.  The flowers are "true blue" - unusual, as we know, in the plant kingdom and therefore eye-catching.  'Sweet Summer Love' is another cultivar from Poland that flowers late in the season on new wood - meaning that it can be cut back hard evey spring.  The small but prolific flowers are cranberry-violet colored and fragrant.  Plant and go.  Not particularly deer-resistant but not one of their favorite foods either.

Cornus obliqua 'Powell Gardens'  Red Rover   (Silky dogwood) - I haven't seen this one around anywhere yet, but if I do I will definitely try it.  Its native, and is proported to have a compact habit, purple-to-red fall foliage color and showy blue fruit. Also red stems in winter.  What's not to look - it's a great selection for moist sites and a pollinator resource and sounds far less blah than "regular" silky dogwood.

 

Heptacodium miconoides 'Temple of Bloom'.  I am a HUGE fan of Heptacodium and would like to plant one at each job just like Lagerstromia.  Unfortunately, they're not so easy to find as young trees, also because they are very gangly and some would say almost ugly as young trees.  I think they have personality and don't mind some asymmetry.  But they do have to be pruned as they grow to have a nice shae (or you can buy them bigger of course, so that they've already been trained).  This new variety from Proven Winners is described as being a compact cultivar with extra-large flowers and extra-red bracts - an improvement over the species that begins to flower earlier as well, for a longer blooming season.  If nothing else, it will be containerized and have some sort of decent-looking habit if its going to be sold in that coveted white pot.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Bobo' - buy it immediately if you see it!  Its a dwarf PG hydrangea with white flowers that are more round than conical and held upright, giving the overall visual of the shrub being totally engulfed in flowers.  No flopping, starts blooming earlier than some PGs and is "plain" - i.e. no half-pink-half-white, just a calm fade to pink, surprisingly quite a different "look" than 'Limelight' or 'Little Lime'.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Little Quick Fire' - same bloom time as 'Quick Fire' but only about a third the size.  The flowers transition from white to burgundy-red fairly quickly, which I like, and the plant has a beautiful and somewhat unusual orange fall foliage color.  Several of my clients have thought that 'Quick Fire' is the "best" PG hydrangea, so though I haven't seen 'Little Quick Fire' in bloom yet, I'm looking forward to installing it.

Itea virginica 'Scentlandia' - I haven't seen this one yet either.  But its billed as a "game changer" because it is the most fragrant Itea ever, has superior bud hardiness, still has great fall color and has a compact habit like 'Little Henry'.  Definitely one of my favorite natives.  Itea is described as being deer-resistant, but I think sometimes they munch it a little bit.  In my experience with 'Little Henry' I've noticed that the flowering has been a little uneven - maybe this new cultivar will help solve that problem which I had previously thought was due to deer browse not lack of bud hardiness.  The fall color, though, is definitely worth the price of admission!

Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'Red Wall'.  I've seen the nightmare of having an ivy-covered stucco façade, where the only solution is to rip off the ivy and re-stucco the house.  But some houses just look so nice with vines growing on them!  Enter, Virginia creeper.  It is much less damaging to the house, and of course turns a beautiful fall color.  Its native, has berries and I think could be beautiful even on a chain-link fence if not a house.  But, beware, it is a strong grower and will jump over onto trees in a heartbeat!

Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'Red Wall'

Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'Red Wall'

Viburnum nudum 'Bulk' Brandywine  - has the most beautiful berry display in the world of viburnums - green to ivory to pink and blue.  'Brandywine' sets fruit without a pollinator, so in that sense a wiser choice then 'Winterthur' (which has been one of my all-time favorites).  It has the same symmetrical habit, those same glossy leaves and maroon-red fall color as 'Winterthur', though.  If you add 'Brandywine' to an existing planting with 'Winterthur' in it, you'll find them both setting lots of berries.  But V. nudum has "stinky flowers" - so put it in the second layer or in the hedgerow.

The Legacy of Pierre Bennerup The American Gardener Nov/Dec 2013

Sunny Border Nurseries

Sunny Border Nurseries

Pierre Benerup, CEO of Sunny Border Nurseries is the person who came up with the idea of selling perennials in containers!  Up till then perennials were sold mostly as bare root plants.   Like other perennial garden "greats" we know, like Piet Oudolf and Roy Diblik, Bennerup has a passion for plants and a wealth of hands-on learning.  He also had a solid background in sales and marketing, which is how he decided to plant in containers - it was sheer practicality.


In the early 1970s, perennial plants were primarily sold bareroot. Wholesale growers such as Walters Gardens in Zeeland, Michigan, and Springbrook Gardens in Mentor, Ohio, grew hundreds of acres of perennials in sandy soils and shipped nationwide to mail-order firms. In turn, the firms put their inventory into coolers until it was time to ship in spring and fall. Perennials such as moss phlox (Phlox subulata) and evergreen candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) were field-dug, thrown into two-quart wooden baskets, and placed on sale in retail nurseries, but few other perennials had the durability to withstand that kind of rough handling.

In the '50s and '60s, Sunny Border had converted a large part of its operation to field-grown production of yews (Taxus media) in order to meet the huge demand for foundation plantings created by the boom in home construction following World War II. The soil in that area of Connecticut is a clay loam, ideal for producing balled-and-burlapped yews, but not for perennials, which couldn't be dug after rains as quickly and easily as they could in the sandy soils of Bennerup's bigger competitors.

With the market for perennials expanding in the 1970s, Bennerup needed to come up with a solution. It was at this point that he decided to take the digging out of the equation and grow plants in pots.

As a wholesale nursery, Sunny Border sells to independent garden centers and directly to landscapers. Bennerup's guiding philosophy is that foliage-not flowers-is the key to successful gardens and landscapes. He elucidated this in the letter he wrote in his 2013 catalog, under the theme "Green is a color, too." Taking issue with what he terms "lipstick landscapes," Bennerup stated,

"I believe a good perennial garden is mostly foliage-various shades of green, bronze, silver, and gold. It's soothing. It's cooling." He adds, "Flower color in the garden should be savored in small portions like dessert. Too much color causes garden obesity." 
"Perennial gardening is about subtlety, form, fragrance, texture, calm, and sometimes even sound and motion; in fact, all the senses, not just sight," he says.
"I get so much enjoyment from gardening and plants," he says. "It's such a great gratification. We are connecting with the real world."

A FEW BENNERUP FAVORITES

In addition to being a fan of perennials with interesting foliage, Pierre Bennerup says his favorite plant "tends to be whatever is blooming at the moment." He does admit to affinities to certain families or genera, such as the primrose family, the ranunculus family, the genus Epimedium, the genus Hakonechloa, the genus Saxifraga, and the genus Phlox. Here are some of his favorite individual perennials, including a few introductions by Sunny Border.

Coreopsis X 'Mercury Rising'

Coreopsis X 'Mercury Rising'

Pulmonaria 'Majeste' foliage

Pulmonaria 'Majeste' foliage

Pulmonaria 'Majeste' flowers

Pulmonaria 'Majeste' flowers

Tiarella X 'Timbuktu' foliage

Tiarella X 'Timbuktu' foliage

Tiarella fall and early winter foliage colors

Tiarella fall and early winter foliage colors

Veronica 'Sunny Border Blue'

Veronica 'Sunny Border Blue'

Sunny Border combination

Sunny Border combination

David Culp, Author of "The Layered Garden", is VP of Sunny Border Nurseries

David Culp, Author of "The Layered Garden", is VP of Sunny Border Nurseries

 

 

 

APLD Brochure: An APLD Guide to Sustainable Soils Available on the APLD website www.apld.org

This brochure is a really good basic summary of soil - and we all know its all about the soil!  

"The bottom line is that soils should be valued and preserved, because, literally, life depends upon it."

Recommendations for Designers include:

  •  Design for your soils. Aim to restore the site's soil back to its native composition. In most cases, avoid overbuilding soils into something beyond what is natural for your area.
  • Know the biology of your soils by sampling and testing the soil using a competent soil biology lab.
  • Do not till or physically disturb a healthy, mature soil. Physical disruption severely damages or destroys the mature soil food web. 
  • Physical soil compaction during construction has a long-term damaging effect on soils and is difficult to remedy after the fact. All efforts should be made to protect soils prior to and during any construction phase. 

The brochure also has a nice summary of the role soils play in sustainability:

  • Soils are the foundation of the ecosystem.
  • The living systems occurring above and below ground are determined by the properties of the soil. Soils store and cycle nutrients needed by these living systems, supporting life all the way from microbes to humans. A healthy, diverse ecosystem is critical for life, and it begins with the health of the soil.
  • Soils store carbon
  • Soils manage water.  Water enters the soil through the channels created by vegetation and the activities of organisms such as earthworms. It fills the empty pore spaces and is taken up by plants. Healthy soils have sufficient open pore space to absorb the water and allow it to infiltrate the soil, recharging the groundwater. Wetlands, also known as hydric soils, manage large quantities of water and also serve as buffers and filters in addition to supporting a vast array of wildlife.  

On the other hand, degraded soils exhibit erosion, which occurs when soils are not covered by vegetation, and rainfall both compacts the soils, forming a crust on the surface, and carries the top layer of sediment away. Compacted soil compresses the pore spaces so that air, water, and plant and animal life cannot penetrate.

  • Soils filter, buffer, degrade and detoxify potentially harmful chemicals
  • Soils influence climate.  Soils moderate temperature fluctuations, as soil heats more slowly than air and can absorb more heat on a hot day. Soils absorb heat during the day and radiate heat at night. Darker soils, which tend to have higher organic content, absorb the most heat. Soil temperature affects plant growth, which in turn affects climate.

Soils and Water

Our soils have changed.
When considering the loss of the eastern deciduous forest (75% gone) and the transition from native prairie / savanna plant systems to the mono-crops of industrial agriculture, we are looking at an incredible change within our soils. The depth and bulk of our current root systems no longer exist as they did two hundred years ago. Trees have extensive root systems in the top 24" of soil, and can reach five to eight feet or more in depth. The prairie existed on a root system depth between two and three feet, with some plants reaching four to six feet deep. The extensive root systems of our original "ground cover" opened up the soil, allowing for a deep penetration of precipitation and the slow exhale of moisture back up into the atmosphere through plant transpiration.
Not any more: corn, soybeans, wheat and other annual crops have temporary root systems in the 12 to 18 inch range. Perennial turfgrass, our American lawn, covering an area about the size of Wisconsin, has a root system of around six to twelve inches in the best of conditions. Precipitation run-off is now something we have to plan for after almost every rain.
Garth Conrad, APLD Garth Conrad Associates, LaPorte, IN

 

American Gardener Magazine New Plants 2016

Excerpted from "The American Gardener" magazine - Jan/Feb 2016

New Plants for 2016

For Dendranthema fans (otherwise known as Korean mums or Hardy mums – these are the ones that come back every year but can be quite floppy and really should be pinched at least once) there’s a new, lower-maintenance cultivar.  Dendranthema ‘Pumpkin Igloo’ has a “non-fading vibrant orange flower color on a compact branching plant that doesn’t need to be pinched”.  Does well down to Zone 5.  If you’ve not used these, they bring amazing flower power to the late summer/early fall perennial border - plants are covered in orange daisy flowers for over a month.  They attract masses of late-season pollinators and are deer-resistant.

Dendranthemum 'Pumpkin Igloo' flower color really pops with other early-fall flowers and foliage.

Dendranthemum 'Pumpkin Igloo' flower color really pops with other early-fall flowers and foliage.

'Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) is drought-tolerant and deer-resistant but can be a little too wild for some gardens.  ‘Denim ‘n Lace’ is a new cultivar with shorter upright stems that won’t flop over. 

Perovskia atriplicifolia 'Denim 'n Lace' is more compact and makes a bigger flower statement than the species - but it reads more purple catmint-colored than the bluer color of the species.

Heliopsis helianthoides var. scabra (False sunflower or Oxeye Daisy) also has a sturdier new cultivar called ‘Prima Ballerina’.  This is a native perennial for the back of the border with bright yellow daisy-like flowers that attract pollinators.  Heliopsis flowers from July to October and is surprisingly deer-resistant in most locations I’ve used it.  It’s a drought-tolerant native (once established) and can tolerate clay soil.  ‘Prima Ballerina’ tops out at only about 40 inches tall and does well to Zone 3.

Heliopsis is perfect for the back of a border - it even works in front foundation plantings.

If you’re looking for something different to put in annual containers this year, look into Echeveria gibbiflora Wildfire™.  This is a 10-inch tall rosette-forming succulent with ruffled, red-edged foliage serves a dramatic visual punctuation and and would look great with ground-cover sedums in a dry, desert-y full-sun container.

This Echeveria will make the blue-toned varieties pop!

Don’t be afraid to try some of the new roses – they really are much easier to grow and maintain nowadays if you choose the disease-resistant repeat-blooming varieties.  Knock-Out roses are in every median strip nowadays – we need a step up from them in our gardens!  There’s a new David Austin rose in 2016 called Rosa ‘Olivia Rose Austin’ which David Austin has called “possibly the best rose that we have introduced to date.  It is also one of the most disease-resistant roses we know.”  It’s a 3-ft tall shrub rose that blooms prolifically with double/full old-rose style flowers and a strong fruity fragrance.

Rosa 'Olivia Rose Austin'

I hope everyone has discovered the wonderfulness of highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum).  For those without deer, blueberries are practically an ideal shrub.  They stay fairly compact (about the size of boxwood or spirea) with an interesting branching pattern.  They have delicate and beautiful flowers in spring, followed by berries that birds love (you can eat them too if you want) and then show-stopping red-orange-burgundy fall foliage color.  They don’t mind a bit of shade, and they tolerate wet feet.  And they’re native – what’s not to love?!  There’s a new series of compact shrubs called BrazelBerries® that includes blueberry varieties.  The new variety for 2016, ‘Perpetua’, is described as “a true double-cropping blueberry, setting fruit in midsummer and then again in fall.  ’Perpetua’s dark green leaves grow in a twisted form and are flushed deep red in fall, while the new canes turn bright yellow and red”.  Does well to Zone 4. 

Brazelberry 'Perpetua' is a compact blueberry cultivar that is self-pollinating.

The wonderfulness of high bush blueberries! This is the 'Perpetual' Brazelberry cultivar. Here you can see the flowers for the fall berry crop together with the fall-colored foliage.

Good advice for everyone, including Landscape Designers

“Annotated” Words of Wisdom from Better Homes and Gardens Magazine Feb 2016 

The article was about enterpreneurs.  It's headline was:

"HINDSIGHT IS 20/20. Here’s what successful start-ups wish they had known."

1. It gets lonely – not just working by yourself, but making decisions alone.

So make sure you cherish your network of friends and colleagues and meet up with them in person regularly.  It can be at the Mamaroneck Public Library for a coffee break during the work day, lunch, or a visit to a public garden on the weekend.  Don’t hesitate to share designs, problems and ideas – its not a competition.  Designs are better when they’re talked through – show someone else the design or meet them at the site and brainstorm over the latte that you bring them.  Also make sure you take the time to talk to the people at the nurseries.  Ask about new plants, their favorite plants, why they like a certain cultivar, what they know about a tree, how the growing season has been affected by the weather – just make a connection. 

2. You wear lots of hats – customer service, accounting, marketing, production, PR – it’s all up to you.

But of course you can’t really do it all, so you’ll probably outsource.  You may be able to barter if you’re a fairly small operation – trade planting seasonal containers for a tutorial in Quickbooks.  The only thing you can be is yourself – if you play to your strengths you’ll be the most effective and the least frustrated.

3. Don’t compare – every business grows differently. Try not to compare yourself with others.

…When you look at other people’s beautiful pictures or visit award-winning landscapes, appreciate the talent and creativity and find out what plants they used and why, what their inspiration was.  Don’t be jealous, and don’t despair.

4. Hire slow, fire fast – the people you work with are an extension of your brand. Make sure they’re good at it.

This is especially true about the contractors you use.  Its not worth hitching your wagon to someone who doesn’t share your standards or doesn’t know what they’re doing.  Cutting corners really doesn’t work in the long run.

5. Be patient – overnight sensations are the exceptions, not the rule. Persistence, hard work and believing in what you do pay off in the long run.

And I would add to that, being good at what you do will pay off in the long run.  That means never stop learning.  Luckily for us landscapes are a long-lasting work product that can continue to evolve and be tweaked (and be learned from!) over time.  

6. Pivot and problem-solve – when you hit an obstacle, don’t let it stop you. Adjust and work it out.

…Mistakes will be made.  We’re human.  Its all about what you do next.  If you make a mistake, ‘fess up and make it right.

Don't Plant these in 2016!

Of the 2814 species of plants growing wild in Massachusetts, fully 45% (1276 species) have been introduced (either on purpose or by accident) from other parts of the globe.  Many of these are agricultural weeds that began arriving in grain or ship’s ballast soon after European colonists came here in the early 1600’s. Others were introduced by horticulturists or the federal government for use in gardens or soil stabilization, reforestation, and the like. It is impossible to know what effect this monumental immigration has had on native plants and animals. Certainly, of the thousands and thousands of plants introduced in the US and Canada from abroad, only a small number (estimates range from 3-7%) are thought to pose a serious threat to native ecosystems. These problem few are quite a problem, however. These invasive exotics have few if any natural predators to keep them in check, instead running rampant and displacing entire communities of native plants as well as the insects, fungi, birds, mammals, reptiles, bacteria, etc that have come to depend on them…. Invasive species have the potential to completely alter habitats, disrupt natural cycles of disturbance and succession, and most importantly, greatly decrease overall biodiversity, pushing rare species to the brink of extinction. Many ecologists now feel that invasive species represent the greatest current and future threat to native plant and animal species worldwide – greater even than human population growth, land development, and pollution.

 

It is high time that we horticulturists recognize our responsibility to both cease the importation and introduction of new and potentially invasive exotic plants and to stop growing and planting known or suspected invasives regardless of their ornamentality or consumer demand. I believe that we need to adopt the precautionary principle as far as plant introductions are concerned, and assume a species (including all of its cultivars) is invasive until proven otherwise (rather than the current approach of “innocent until proven guilty”). At least let’s not make this situation any worse.

Flight 93 Memorial

The Visitor's Center at the Flight 93 Memorial will officially be dedicated tomorrow.  I remember that morning hearing that one of the planes had crashed in Pittsburgh.  Of course no one knew what was happening - it was all unfolding in terrifying real time.  The plane crashed near Shanksville, PA, not too far from the PA turnpike.  Since I travelled the PA turnpike quite often in those years, I figured out with Dad where Shanksville was and on one trip I went to see the site, though the park had not been developed at that point.  Western PA is the place that feels like home to me.  It's peaceful and beautiful and vast, with rolling hills and farmland and spectacular fall foliage.  Hopefully a peaceful resting place.  

Here's what Paul Murdoch, the architect of the memorial said about it:

“In its raw severity, we acknowledge their sacrifice. In its solemn darkness, we acknowledge their loss. In its calm serenity, we offer solace at their final resting place. And in its monumental scale, we praise their heroic deeds.”

'Soaring Spirit' climbing rose planted in the 'Remember Me' memorial rose gardens and also in my backyard in remembrance of those who lost their lives on 9/11

Some Plants you should try

Try these plants in your garden - you will be rewarded with long-lasting and beautiful flowers.  And we all know there can never be enough flowers!

Hydrangea macrophylla Everlasting Revolution - Many different colors of blooms on the same plant

Hydrangea Everlasting Revolution with green tinge as blooms ageThe plant grows to about 3 ft X 3 ft with sturdy stems and deeply-toothed leaves  Hydrangea macrophylla  Cultivar name: 'Hokomarevo'.  The color changes on a single Revolution shrub are incredible.  You will see combinations of deep pink, maroon and blue blooms, all with green highlights as the flowers mature.  Every color can be present at once on this heavily re-blooming shrub.  It's as if all the colors and combinations possible in the Hydrangea family have come together in a single shrub.

"Everlasting™" is a Dutch series, and it was originally bred for the cut-flower market, so the emphasis is entirely on the blooms. The flower stems are stronger and straighter than those of many other Hydrangeas, ensuring that the blooms won't flop or twist.  The flowers are ultra long-lasting and quite large, especially when seen on the plant, which is just 3 to 4 feet high and wide.

It needs consistently moist soil and a bit of shade. Do not allow it to dry out completely, but make sure the soil drainage is good.  Zones 5-9.

Rosa X 'Citrus Burst'

Rosa X 'Citrus Burst'

This climbing rose has flowers with soft pink and yellow stripes that repeat steadily all summer.  It has a light green apple fragrance and a vigorious grower, reaching up to 12 feet.  It has excellent disease resistance and with dark green, very glossy foliage.  Bloom Season: spring to fall. 

Clematis Still Waters

Clematis Still Waters™ - "Dependable performance and soothing lavender tones." Cultivar Name: 'Zostiwa'.

Still Waters™ produces pale lavender-blue 4-inch blooms with maroon centers.  It starts blooming in June and flowers freely, reblooming all summer.  The pale blooms hold their color beautifully - a long-lasting play of light against warmer colors.  It is a Group 3 Clematis, meaning that it blooms primarily on new wood (making it "easy" to grow because you can cut it back each year).  Every spring you should prune it back to about 2 feet from the ground.  

Bred in the Netherlands, Still Waters™ is a Proven Winners® ColorChoice® plant chosen for its exceptional beauty and performance.  To be selected for this group, it was thoroughly tested in trial gardens all around the world, and found to have superb health, vigor, and color.

You commonly read that Clematis prefer light shade, especially on their roots.  But I've also learned from experts that this "preference" is because many people don't plant Clematis correctly.  Just like tomato plants, they should be planted with their crowns 2 – 3 inches deeper in the ground compared to the pot-dirt-level to encourage robust root growth.  The first set of true leaves should be under the soil surface.  This allows the plant to grow a strong root system – critical for a vigorous vine.

I know, I know.  This goes against everything we’ve ever heard about “don’t plant too deeply or you’ll kill the plant.”  Tomatoes and Clematis break that rule.  They sprout roots from nodes along the buried stem, and these extra roots strengthen the plants so that they can support more fruit (tomato) or climb more vigorously and produce more flowers (clematis).  With proper planting, watering until establishment (and during periods of drought) and mulch to conserve soil moisture, Clematis should do just fine without "cool" or "shaded" roots.  Remember to keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.

Old habits die hard, but I've tried it a number of times and it really does work work.  Clematis is "finnicky" no longer!  You can get Clematis Still Waters™ and a great selection of other Clematis and other types of vines and climbers mail-order from Brushwood Nursery.  They propagate from cuttings, and ship again starting Sept through Nov (although last I checked they are out of stock for Still Waters™).  I've been very pleased with their quality and I've tried small-flowered Clematis and non-vining Clematis varieties as well – both turn out to be unusual and beautiful (and low-maintenance as well).  It’s a cheap and easy way to add flowers to your landscape, especially if you have trellises, gazebos, garden arches or stone walls for the vines to grow on.

Zones 5 to 9.

The food web - what is the role of fungi?

Disclaimer:  Before you read further, this may be the product of a science nerd.  I learned several new terms during the research for this entry, including my new favorite "phyllosphere" - which I will be using in sentences as much as possible from now on!
Someone asked me recently what powdery mildew was and if it harmed the tree.
Before I could answer the question, I had to understand the role of fungus in the food web, since powdery mildew is caused by a fungus.  It turns out that it's all about the disposition of energy and nutrients in the food web.
  • A food web is a graphic concept describing "who eats whom" in an ecosystem.  Every living thing—from single-celled algae to giant blue whales—needs food to survive.  How that living thing gets its food is part of a complex pathway that energy and nutrients follow through the ecosystem.
Organisms within an ecosystem are generally divided into categories called "trophic levels" – referring to whether they produce their own food ("producers"), eat other organic matter that is living or recently killed ("consumers") or eat non-living plant and animal remains ("detritivores, saprotrophs, decomposers").
  • Producers, also known as "autotrophs", make their own food.  Autotrophs are usually plants or single-celled organisms.  Nearly all autotrophs use a process called photosynthesis to create “food” (glucose) from sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water. 
Primary consumers, or herbivores, eat plants.  Secondary consumers eat the herbivores.  Tertiary consumers eat the secondary consumers.  Consumers can be carnivores (animals that eat other animals) or omnivores (animals that eat both plants and animals).  
  • Detritivores feed on any dead or organic biomass including animals, plants, and feces.  They ingest the decomposing biological matter, digest it internally, and shed nutrients in simple forms that plants can easily absorb from the soil.  The earthworm is a classic example of a terrestrial detritivore, but slugs, woodlice, dung flies, millipedes, and most of the worms are some of the other examples. 
  • Saprotrophs feed on decaying or dead plant matter.  Fungi species predominate among saprotrophs due to their ability to digest lignin in the xylem tissues of plants.  Saprotrophs don't have an internal digestive system.  Instead, they secrete digestive enzymes such as proteases, lipases, or amylases onto the substrates.  This type of extracellular digestion transforms lipids into fatty acids and glycerol; proteins into amino acids, and polysaccharides (e.g. lignin, starch) into glucose and fructose.  These simplified nutrients are absorbed into the fungi through an active transport means called endocytosis – this is how they get their nutrition.  
The ecological role of the saprotrophs is vital for nutrient cycling and energy flow since they consume matter that is difficult for others to break down.
  • Detritivores are mostly animals while saprotrophs are mostly fungi.
  • Detritivores consume lumps of dead organic matter separately, while saprotrophs absorb chemically digested food.
  • Saprotrophs digest their food externally, whereas detritivores do it internally in the digestive system.
  • Detritivores shed most of the digested matter unabsorbed, whereas saprotrophs absorb the entire digested matter to use for their own growth, repair, and reproduction.
Decomposers - fungi and bacteria - turn organic wastes into inorganic materials, such as nutrient-rich soil.  
Detritivores, saprotrophs and decomposers function to complete the cycle of life, returning nutrients to the soil or oceans for use by autotrophs.
  • Different habitats and ecosystems provide many possible food chains that make up a food web.  As an example, a grazing food web has plants or other photosynthetic organisms at its base, followed by herbivores and various carnivores.  A detrital food web, mostly bacteria or fungi, recycles organic material back into the biotic part of the ecosystem.  Since all ecosystems require a method to recycle material from dead organisms, most grazing food webs have an associated detrital food web.  For example, in a meadow ecosystem, plants may support a grazing food web of different consumers, while at the same time supporting a detrital food web of bacteria, fungi, and detrivorous invertebrates feeding off dead plants and animals.
  • Producers receive their energy from light by means of photosynthesis.  After this, the energy in organic matter flows from producers to the different levels of consumers.  However, at each trophic level, energy is always lost.  All of the trophic levels lose energy as heat through cell respiration.  Also, as the organic matter passes from one trophic level to the next, not all of it is digested and energy from organic matter is lost through feces.  This energy then passes on to the detritivores and saprotrophs.  Another energy loss occurs through tissue loss and death which can happen at any trophic level.  Once again, this energy would be passed on to detritivores and saprotrophs as they digest these.  Detritivores and saprotrophs, in turn, lose energy as heat through cell respiration. 
Energy is not recycled.  Since the energy in organic matter is continually being lost as it flows through the ecosystem, energy in the form of sunlight must be constantly re-supplied.  Nutrients on the other hand have to be recycled.  There is only a finite supply of them - they are absorbed from the environment, used by living organisms and then returned to the environment.
  • Fungi that act as decomposers are essential recyclers of nutrients in an ecosystem.  Without these fungi, forest floors would be covered in plant debris and animal carcasses; similarly other ecosystems would have a vast amount of waste piled up.  Without fungal decomposition, nutrients in the soil would be used up, and plants would not have food and couldn’t survive.  If plants don’t survive, the animals that depend on plants for food would also suffer, and the whole food chain would collapse. 
Since transferring nutrients from fungi to the soil is such an integral part of the food chain, some organisms team up with fungi to form symbiotic relationships.  Mycorrhizal fungi, for example, form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots; the plant provides the fungi with carbohydrates, and the fungi in return transfer nutrients like phosphorus to the plant.
  • Endophytic fungus lives within a plant for at least part of its life without causing apparent disease.‪   Endophytes are ubiquitous and have been found in all the species of plants studied to date, but most of these endophyte/plant relationships are not well understood.  Many economically important grasses (e.g., Festuca spp. [Fescue], Lolium spp. [Ryegrass], Zea [Maize]) carry fungal endophytes that are believed to enhance host growth‪ and improve the plant's ability to tolerate abiotic stresses, such as drought, and resistance to insects and mammalian herbivores.‬‬‬‬   For example, endophyte-containing tall fescue is now being planted in areas where people want to deter geese from eating the grass, since it seems to be unpalatable to them.‬‬
While most fungi aid the function of the ecosystem and contribute positively to the food chain, some fungi are harmful to and can even destroy plant life.  An epiphytic fungus is a fungus that grows upon, or attached to, a living plant.  Ephiphytic fungi are part of the mycobiota infesting the plant's phyllosphere, or leaf surface, along with other species of fungus and other organisms.  If cultural conditions (temperature, humidity, soil moisture etc ) result in a disturbance of the equilibrium between "good" and "pathogenic" organisms in the phyllospere, a pathogenic epiphyte like the fungus causing powdery mildew can precipitate plant disease.
  • Powdery mildew fungi are obligate, biotrophic parasites.  Infection by the fungus is favored by high humidity but not by free water.  During the growing season, hyphae are produced on leaf surfaces and specialized absorption cells, termed "haustoria", extend into the plant epidermal cells to obtain nutrition - this can eventually kill a heavily infected leaf.  "Conidia" (asexual spores) are also produced on plant surfaces during the growing season.  They develop on specialized hyphae called conidiophores that are frost-resistant and can overwinter in leaf litter. 
Certain fungal species that cause wood rot are also epiphytic and gain access to wood at a wound site where the bark is breached.  Although trees have mechanisms to compartmentalize the spread of fungi, if large areas of dead tissue spread through the tree, its nutrient supply is cut off and its structural integrity is compromised.  
  • But even as pathogens, the role of fungi can be seen as beneficial to the ecosystem as a whole.  Tree death is a natural and necessary aspect of the forest ecosystem.  The death of large old trees is necessary for the regeneration of new trees and the continuation of the forest.  Death is necessary for life.  Tree diseases that attack especially weak trees can improve the overall vigor of a stand.  In addition, the death of a large tree in the forest creates a gap in the canopy, letting sunlight reach the forest floor and allowing the regeneration of species that would not otherwise grow in the shade of the tree.  Therefore, tree death can improve the diversity of the forest.  This is important because diversity confers resilience to a system.  Pathogens often have some degree of host specificity, meaning they only attack certain species of trees.  A forest that contains only one type of tree is in danger of being completely obliterated by a single pathogen, whereas the damage would be more confined in a forest with greater species diversity.

 

 

Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, Richmond VA

My smart and sweet niece is going to start at the University of Richmond this fall, and it just so happens that Richmond has a Botanical Garden - can't wait to see it!  There are some stunning pictures on line - I've added a few below - including a treehouse that is part of the children's garden.

Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden overviewThe water feature in the sunken gardenAutumn colors surround the treehouseIt looks like a lovely place to take a walk if you need a break.  

US National Arboretum Tree and Shrub Introductions

I ran across the US National Arboretum website again recently, and my attention was caught by the information on introductions to the Nursery trade that have come from there.  There are some we all use and might be surprised came from the National Arboretum (like 'Green Giant' arborvitae, who knew?!), and others that are worth looking out for this coming season, like 'Sun Valley' red maple.  Here are the descriptions of a few of them.

Malus 'Adirondack' (Crabapple) Five hundred open-pollinated seedlings of Malus halliana were artificially inoculated with fire blight under controlled conditions.  Of the sixty surviving seedlings, several showed field resistance to scab, cedar-apple rust, and powdery mildew when exposed to natural inoculum from heavily infected, susceptible plants during eleven years of field trial.  'Adirondack' was selected from this seedling population in 1974 by Donald R. Egolf and released in 1987.  'Adirondack' has a narrow, upright-branched growth habit, abundant, small, persistent fruit, a slow to moderate growth rate, and multiple disease tolerance. This is one for confined spaces, an allee, or next to a walkway.  Even the front border if there's anough space.

  • Height and Width: 18 feet tall and 16 feet crown width at 20 years.
  • Habit: Narrow obovate, upright-branched small tree. Maintains upright form with age.
  • Foliage: Leathery dark green leaves. The foliage is highly tolerant to cedar apple rust, apple scab, and powdery mildew.
  • Flowers: Dark carmine buds mature to a lighter red and open to white, waxy, heavy-textured, wide-spreading flowers with traces of red; slightly fragrant.
  • Fruit: Abundant, bright orange-red, hard, small (1/2-inch) fruit persist until early winter. Relished by birds after softened by freezing.
  • Adaptable to diverse soil, moisture, and climatic conditions. Requires virtually no pruning to maintain its shape nor chemical controls for the common crabapple diseases.

Viburnum X burkwoodii 'Conoy' U.S.D.A. Zones 5b - 8; reliably evergreen in U.S.D.A. Zones 7 - 8.

'Conoy' is a selection from the cross of V. utile with V. x burkwoodii 'Park Farm Hybrid' made in 1968 by Dr. Donald Egolf at the U.S. National Arboretum. Selected for field trial and propagation in 1976, 'Conoy' was named and released in 1988.

'Conoy' is distinguished from other Burkwood viburnum cultivars by its compact growth habit, fine-textured, evergreen foliage, and persistent, abundant, glossy red fruit for approximately 6-8 weeks in the fall.

  • Height and width: 4-5 feet tall and 7-8 feet wide.
  • Habit: Spreading, dense-branched, evergreen shrub.
  • Foliage: Extremely glossy, small, dark green leaves in summer with dark maroon tinge in winter.
  • Flowers: Dark pink buds open to slightly fragrant, cream-white flowers in late April.
  • Fruit: Slightly pendulous clusters of fruit ripen in mid-August to bright red before turning black in October.
  • Grows best in full sun to partial shade in a heavy loam with an adequate moisture supply. Tolerates drought and drier soils extremely well.

Thuja 'Green Giant'  Thuja (standishii x plicata) 'Green Giant'  U.S.D.A. Zones 5–7

In 1967, a single plant reputed to be Thuja (standishii x plicata)was received from D.T. Poulsen, Kvistgaard, Denmark, and planted at the U.S. National Arboretum. This plant exhibited exceptional landscape quality and propagations were distributed. In the distribution process, the name and identity of this clone became confused with that of another arborvitae from the same source, T. occidentalis 'Giganteoides'. The identity of the exceptional clone as the T. (standishii x plicata) hybrid was resolved by Susan Martin, USNA, Kim Trip, New York Botanic Garden, and Robert Marquard, Holden Arboretum, through extensive records searches, nursery inspections, and isozyme analysis. The name Thuja 'Green Giant' was selected to identify and promote this clone.

'Green Giant' is a vigorously growing, pyramidal evergreen with rich green color that remains outstanding throughout hardiness range. It has no serious pest or disease problems and has been widely grown and tested in commercial nursery production. 

  • Height and width: To 60 feet tall with a 12–20 foot spread at maturity; 30 feet at 30 years.
  • Growth rate: Rapid.
  • Habit: Tightly pyramidal to conical evergreen tree; uniform appearance.
  • Foliage: Dense, rich green, scalelike foliage in flattened sprays borne on horizontal to ascending branches; good winter color.
  • Fruit: Persistent, oblong cones, approximately 1/2 inch length. Cones emerge green and mature to brown.
  • Adaptable; grows in soil types from sandy loams to heavy clays. Requires little to no pruning.

The "Girl" Magnolias U.S.D.A. Zones 3 - 8

  • Magnolia (liliflora 'Nigra' x stellata 'Rosea') 'Ann', 'Betty', 'Judy', 'Randy', 'Ricki', 'Susan'
  • Magnolia (liliflora 'Reflorescens' x stellata 'Waterlily') 'Jane' 
  • Magnolia (liliflora 'Reflorescens' x stellata 'Rosea') 'Pinkie' 

'The "Girl Magnolias'' are selections resulting from controlled pollinations of Magnolia liliflora 'Nigra' by M. stellata 'Rosea'; M. liliflora 'Reflorescens' by M. stellata 'Rosea'; and M. liliflora 'Reflorescens' by M. stellata 'Waterlily'.  The crosses were made at the U.S. National Arboretum in 1955 and 1956 by William F. Kosar and Dr. Francis de Vos. All are F1 hybrids and reported to be sterile triploid selections.

These magnolia selections bloom two to four weeks later than M. stellata and M. x soulangiana, reducing the possibility of late spring frost damage. Plants produce flowers with a variety of colors from reddish-purple to pink on white. The unexpected sporadic summer bloom adds landscape interest.  Plants grow best in full sun to light shade; prefer loam soil with adequate moisture; tolerate poorly drained, heavy clay soils or dry areas.

Magnolia 'Jane'Magnolia 'Ann'

Viburnum X burkwoodii 'Mohawk' U.S.D.A. Zones 5b - 8  A backcross of Viburnum x burkwoodii to V. carlesii was made in 1953 by Dr. Donald Egolf.  Seed produced from this cross was embryo-cultured to expedite seedling production.  The cultivar 'Mohawk' was selected from this population in 1960 and released in 1966.

'Mohawk' is distinguished from related cultivars by abundant clusters of glossy, dark red flower buds that are ornamental for several weeks prior to full bloom.  The waxy white flowers with red blotches on the reverse side of the petals have a strong, spicy, clove fragrance.  'Mohawk' has a fairly compact growth habit and foliage resistant to bacterial leaf spot and powdery mildew.  Definitely choose this as your fragrant viburnum if you see it in the Nursery!

  • Height and width: 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide.
  • Habit: Deciduous shrub with spreading branches.
  • Foliage: Glossy, dark green leaves turn a brilliant orange-red in autumn. The foliage is highly tolerant to bacterial leaf spot and powdery mildew.
  • Flowers: Brilliant, glossy red flower buds appear several weeks before the flowers begin to open in late April, extending the effective ornamental period by several weeks. The red of the flower buds contrasts well with the white of the opened flowers and is retained on the reverse of the flower. Flowers have a strong, spicy, clove fragrance. 
  • Fruit: A black drupe.
  • 'Mohawk' grows well in many exposures and soils, but performs best in sun with moderate moisture and well-drained soils.

Acer rubrum 'Sun Valley' U.S.D.A. Zones 4–7 'Sun Valley' resulted from a controlled cross made in 1982 by A.M. Townsend as part of a tree genetics research project examining the inheritance of fall color and leafhopper resistance.  'Sun Valley' is a cross of A.rubrum 'Red Sunset' and A.rubrum 'Autumn Flame'. Released December, 1994.  I saw a whole row of these about 2 years ago at Prospero Nursery in full color, and they were so beautiful.  Completely symmetrical shape and some hints of orange in their red color.  They really looked like a sunset.  Unfortunately, at the time I didn't know anything about this hybrid, so we didn't end up buying one, to my eternal regret!

  • Height and Width: 21 feet tall, 10 feet wide at 10 years.
  • Habit: Medium-sized deciduous tree.  Symmetrical ovate crown.
  • Foliage: Brilliant red, exceptionally long- lasting (2 weeks or more) with peak color in the 3rd to 4th week of October, about 1 week before 'October Glory'.  Medium green leaves in summer. 
  • Bark: Light grey and smooth when young; turning dark grey with age. 
  • Flowers: Male, early spring.
  • Adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions. Prefer slightly acid, moist soils.  

2015 Perennial Plant of the Year - Geranium x cantabrigiense 'Biokovo'

Geranium X cantabrigiense 'Biokovo' in flower

The Perennial Plant Association membership has voted and the 2015 Perennial Plant of the Year™ is  Geranium X cantabrigiense ‘Biokovo’.

 ’Biokovo’ is a naturally occurring hybrid of Geranium dalmaticum and Geranium macrorrhizum found in the Dalmatia region of present-day Croatia.  It blooms in late spring with masses of 5-petaled white flowers, about ¾” diameter, that are tinged pink at the base of each petal and have darker pink center stamens.  An interesting feature is that the sepals that are redder than the petals, so that when the flower opens the lightly tinged pink flowers provide a nice contrast to the sepals and stamens.  It blooms from mid-May to late July.

G. X cantabrigiense has aromatic foliage and rounded leaf edges and is semi-evergreen in most climates.  It has a spreading habit and is rhizomatous, i.e. it spreads by sending out runners.  It grows to 6-10 inches high, with a spread of about 2 feet.  It can be used as a ground cover that spreads fairly rapidly through the perennial bed or as an edger in the front of the border.  It also does well in rock gardens.  It tolerates full sun to part-shade conditions.  Its foliage turns scarlet and orange in the fall. 

Another G. X cantabrigiense variety is 'Karmina', because sometimes it matters what color the flowers are!

Geranium X cantabrigiense 'Karmina', seen below, has carmine-red flowers.

The general qualities of Geranium species (commone name "cranesbill") include: 

  • Deer Resistant (OK, yes, nothing is completely deer-resistant; it is in many places I've planted it)
  • Many varieties tolerate some shade
  • Bloom for 4 weeks or more 
  • Rabbit Resistant (again, it depends, but in general they leave it alone)
  • Flowers attract butterflies
  • Can be used as groundcovers (low spreaders) or bed-fillers (taller varieties)
  • Need little care and no division
  • Excellent mounding habit as they first start in spring, and some varieties maintain that habit.  
  • Deeply cut foliage; flowers with interesting veining patterns. 
  • They can be deadheaded after blooming, or the tops of the plants can be sheared back to new growth to stimulate re-bloom and freshen foliage.  
  • Many varieties have beautiful red, burgundy or orange fall color that is a stand-out if the plant has been allowed to weave intself throught the garden bed.

Other types of geranium that are useful in different garden contexts, are hardy and fairly care-free include:

  • Geranium macrorrhizum (Bigroot Geranium), Z 3-8, 15-18" in height, native to southern Europe, large laromatic leaves.  Varieties include 'Bevan's Variety' and 'Ingwersen's Variety', seen in the series of pictures below:

G. macrorrhizum 'Bevan's Variety'

G. macrorrhizhum 'Ingwersen's Variety'

G. macrorrhizum fall foliage color

  • Geranium pratense (Meadow Cranesbill), Z 5-7, 24-36" tall, purple flowers from reddish veins on dark blue petals, native to northern Europe, may need staking.  Some cultivars have dark foliage; need sun for optimal foliage color.   Clump-former; blooms May – July.  Cultivars include 'Dark Reiter',  'Midnight Reiter', 'Summer Skies', 'Purple Haze', 'Mrs. Kendall Clark', 'Splish Splash'.  G. praetense does spread by seed, so it can pop up here and there throughout the garden - that may be a desirable trait if you're trying to get it to fill in, or an undesirable trait if you only want it in a certain place.

G. praetense 'Midnight Reiter'

  • Geranium sanguineum (Bloody Cranesbill) Z 3-8, 9-12", magenta flowers in spring, native to Europe and Asia, tolerates heat and drought; deeply divided leaves, bright red fall color, blooms in spring.  Varieties include 'Striatum', 'Max Frei', 'Ankum's Pride'.

G. sanguineum 'Max Frei'

  • Geranium wlassovianum Z 5-8, 18-24" tall; One of the first hardy Geraniums to bloom and one of the last to stop. Dusky violet flowers with deeper veining and a white eye. Fall brings outstanding deep red tones. Trails gently.  Will adapt to most soil conditions provided there is good drainage and some moisture. Nice massed as a groundcover, in rock gardens or as an informal edger. Completely carefree.

G. wlassovianumG. wlassovianum fall foliage color

  •  And, of course, Geranium X 'Rozeanne' seen below.  Unbelievable quantities of large, violet-blue blooms from June until frost; hardy to Z5; 20" tall with a 2 foot spread; bluish-purple flowers are heightened by black anthers, magenta veins and a radiant white eye. Fiery red leaves in autumn; withstands sunny, hot sites and is happy just about anywhere, from an exposed border to a container.  'Rozeanne' is a naturally occurring sterile hybrid of Geranium himalayense and Geranium wallichianum ‘Buxton’s Variety’.  Lynden Miller says "No garden should be without Geranium 'Rozeanne'."
Reflections-on-nature-Cranesbill.jpg

Winter Dormancy and Cold-Hardiness - How woody plants survive winter

Winter dormancy of woody plants is based on their ability to track photoperiod, air temperature and soil temperature.  Once in a dormant state, the plant goes on to develop cold resistance, also referred to as "cold-hardening" or "cold-hardiness".  Dormancy happens before the cold-hardening process starts, usually in about September for woody plants.  The first stage of dormancy is called "endodormancy" – plants stop growing so that they can reconfigure their gene expression towards the acquisition of cold tolerance.  During endodormancy, internal signals and processes within the plant prevent growth, even if the plant is returned to growth-promoting external conditions.  In other words, during endodormancy buds simply can't grow.  This prevents the initiation of new shoot growth from buds in autumn, when the environment can rapidly fluctuate between growth-promoting and non-promoting conditions – that would be a waste of precious energy for the plant.

Cold-hardening* refers to environmentally- and hormonally-regulated changes in gene expression that lead to changes in metabolism and cellular functioning to protect cells from damage due to dehydration and freezing.  It occurs in two stages over a period of weeks to months.  Stage 1 occurs when temperatures are between 10 - 20 °C (50 – 68 °F) and includes a shift on gene expression towards storage of reserve carbohydrates and lipids.  Stage 2 is promoted by colder temperatures and involves the accumulation of cryoprotectant substances (natural "antifreeze"), as well as changes in membrane lipids and structural changes in bud anatomy.  Because cold-hardening requires energy, a plant may not be able to become fully cold-hardened if it is diseased or stressed such that there are low amounts of reserve carbohydrates.

Bud dormancy is only broken by exposure to cold temperatures – i.e. by a period of chilling.  The plant senses "chill" (temperatures below "biological zero" 41 °F; 5 °C).  Although freezing is not required, freezing temperatures during endodormancy can break dormancy faster.  Likewise, intermittent warm days during endodormancy delay dormancy release.  Between 1000 and 2000 hours of chilling are required for most woody plants in temperate zones, varying by species.  A combination of photoperiod (increasing day length) and adequate chilling leads to dormancy release.  The buds now enter a period referred to as "ecodormancy" – meaning that growth is arrested by environmental conditions that are not conducive to growth.  As soon as conditions become favorable, growth can occur.

The overall process goes something like this:

 • The plant needs to form buds so that it can generate vegetative growth (leaves) next year, because leaves are where photosynthesis occurs – i.e. where food is made by the plant.  Setting buds requires the plant to use energy, and occurs during the plant's active growth period.

• Bud formation is signaled by plant hormones under the control of temperature and photoperiod.   

• As days shorten and temperatures decrease, buds enter a dormant state (endodormancy), during which they stop growing and instead develop cold resistance – a metabolic process that requires the plant to use its energy reserves.  Plants break down proteins and other chemicals that were stored in their leaves during the growing season and store them in buds, bark and wood for growth next spring.  These stored forms of energy will function when temperatures are near-freezing and can survive freezing and thawing in the winter.  

• One consequence of this change in metabolism in many woodies is a change in leaf color – accessory pigments that helped protect chlorophyll from sunlight damage are released and become visible.

• During this period of endodormancy, buds cannot grow, and that's a way that the plant protects itself from expending energy on growth that will more than likely be killed by cold temperatures.

• Buds need extended both exposure to cold temperatures ("chilling") and increasing day length to break dormancy and re-establish their growth competence.

• On fruit trees, if the buds do not receive adequate chilling, there will be no flowers and no fruit.  Fruit tree breeders are developing low-chill-requiring cultivars so that as global warming progresses fruit can still be grown in temperate climates.

• When photoperiod and chill requirements have been met, buds break endodormancy.  Nonetheless, buds remain "ecodormant" – i.e. capable of growth but not actively growing – until they are exposed to warm temperatures (both soil and air) for a critical period before shoot extension and initial leaf emergence.  This is an energy-requiring process that draws on the plant's energy reserves.  Once new leaves begin to emerge, they are susceptible to being killed by frost.

 • Within a given species, there can be both northern and southern "eco-types" with different chilling requirements.  For example, while a red maple from a cold part of its range may need 2000 hours of chilling to break endodormancy, a red maple from a warm part of its range may need less than 1000 hours of chilling.  If you transplant a red maple grown in the warmer part of its range to the colder part of its range, it will only be in ecodormancy during most of the winter (because its chill requirement is quickly met and then its endodormancy is governed only by photoperiod).  If the winter is mild, it may leaf out, then have those leaves killed by a spring frost.  The maple grown in the cold part of its range and transplanted to another location in the cold part of its range will have a chill requirement that means it will remain endodormant longer during a mild winter, and therefore be less likely to leaf out "early". 

*Footnote: "Cold-hardening" is not to be confused with "hardiness zone".  Saying that a plant is "cold-hardy to Zone 4", for example, describes its potential to be able to resist cold damage – i.e. the lowest temperature it can withstand – a function of its particular genetic make-up.  However, even "cold-hardy" plants must undergo the "cold-hardening" process over and over again each winter.

Incorporate your late fall clean-up “trimmings” with other natural materials for a one-of-a-kind seasonal wreath

The weather was very mild in late November and early December, after an early cold snap, so fall clean-up chores extended into the holiday-decorating-of-containers season this year.  I realized that some of the stuff I was “cleaning up” could be used to decorate the containers or added to wreaths.  My favorite garden pictures website is GAP Photos (www.gapphotos.com) – it’s a British site and always features projects that can be done with natural materials.  Here are a few of the wreath ideas that were on their blog this winter:

'Hedgerow" wreath

This one they call the “hedgerow” wreath.  Since I am dedicated to the proposition of creating hedgerow-like plantings for any of my clients who are willing, this showed me how beautiful the fruits of a hedgerow can be (for people).  Of course, birds and animals love hedgerows too.  This wreath has

Malus

(crabapples),

Crataegus

(hawthorn),

Rosa

(rose hips) and

Rubus

(blackberry) and some other types of dried seedheads.

Features of a Hedgerow

Most hedges in Britain were originally planted to keep grazing animals contained. They include one or several shrub species, often planted on a bank or with an adjacent ditch. Mixed hedgerows may include tree and shrub species such as hawthorn, hazel (

Coryllus avellana

), Field maple (

Acer campestre

), and oak.  An “American” version might include serviceberry (

Amelanchier

), paperbark maple (

Acer griseum

) (for a beautiful winter bark), corneliancherry dogwood (

Cornus mas

) and shrubs like highbush blueberry (

Vaccinium corymbosum)

, red-twig dogwood (

Cornus sericea

), bloodtwig dogwood (

Cornus sanguinea

), smokebush (

Cotinus coggygria

) or ninebark (

Physocarpus opulifolius

).  You could plant

Corylus colurna

(Turkish hazel) instead of

Corylus avellana

(hazel as in hazel nuts).  I’ve also planted giant dogwood (

Cornus controversa

) and pagoda dogwood (

Cornus alternifolia

) in a “hedgerow” (I call it a mixed screening border).  For a little pizazz you could add a crapemyrtle (

Lagerstromia

).  Mix in a few evergreens like American holly (

Ilex opaca

), Oriental spruce (

Picea orientalis

) and slow-growing blue spruce (

Picea pungens

‘Fat Albert’).

Habitat for wildlife

Tall, wide and bushy hedges with several different plant species provide the richest wildlife habitats. The thick vegetation they offer gives shelter to nesting and hibernating animals while hedgerow flowers, fruits and nuts are a food source for invertebrates, birds and small mammals. Hedges act as corridors for small creatures to travel along under protective vegetation.

Some additional wildlife-friendly and/or sustainability-friendly wreath ideas:

Crabapples wired together in a circle

Maple leaves or other colored fall leaves wired into a circle.

You can cut a few stems of red-twig dogwood and winterberry holly to stuff into your containers.  If you prune your magnolias, you can use their branches in containers as well.  I’ve put dried-on-the-shrub hydrangeas that have nice colors into windowboxes and containers as well.

At my house I added a bittersweet-from-the-roadside wreath on the gate and red-twig and yellow-twig dogwood stems with winterberry holly stems in the containers.  I also have the beautiful winter silhouette of climbing hydrangea that “camouflages” part of the dreaded chain-link fence.